48 Hours in Clifden
Scroll down for the short list of accommodations, food and drink recommendations, and things to do
It all started with a much needed respite. Between moving homes, starting a new job, and traveling quite literally around the globe for said job, I was craving a peaceful, quiet getaway that did not involve an airport.
Ireland may not be known for drop dead gorgeous accommodations, but there is a small and growing movement towards thoughtfully designed and executed independent accommodations. In choosing where to go, I quickly stumbled upon Clifden and Fernwood Eco. It looked like the perfect place to take it easy for a couple of days.
The morning we left was a bit of an early one. Heuston Train Station is on the exact opposite of Dublin from where we live, so it was a bit of a trek to get there. That being said, the train was comfortable and quick, leaving us in Galway to pick up our rental and head up to Clifden.
As we pulled into Fernwood in the late-afternoon, a sense of peace washed over me. Check in is touchless and we only ever saw another person as we arrived at our sauna appointment that evening.
That evening, blissed out from our sauna and cold-plunge session and grounded from our walk through the forest paths on the property, we headed into Clifden to pick up pizzas from Guys Bar and a bottle of Nero D’Avola from Lamplight Wines to enjoy fireside back at the dome.
The next day was for site-seeing. We didn’t want to spend all day in the car so we chose a couple of local spots to check out.
First up, the Clifden Castle. We drove by it the first time so do not trust Google Maps! Once we walked through the castle gate, a winding dirt path takes you down to the castle ruins. Watch your step as you walk through the grounds of this 1818 Gothic-Revival style castle. One of the best parts about this stop is the beautiful views over Clifden Bay.
From the castle, we headed up the Sky Road to the aptly named Sky Road Vista. An official spot on the Wild Atlantic Way, this offers sweeping views of Clifden Bay and the Atlantic. We lucked out and not only had good weather, but got to meet a lovely neighborhood horse who was hanging out by the pull-out.
On our way back to town, we turned down a classic Irish road: one lane, two directions, with hedges close on each side that ended at Eyrephort Beach.
A bit rocky on one side, it was a lovely backdrop for a walk and a tidal pool hunt. With crystal blue waters, only the chill set it apart from what could have been a Carribean beach. Absolutely stunning.
Feeling peckish, we popped by Coffee Corral for a coffee and pastry. The espresso came with a glass of water, “the proper way to do it” according to my fiance who was pleasantly surprised. It’s a great stop when you’re out adventuring.
After an early evening sauna and cold-plunge session, we made our way back to Clifden. Arriving early for our reservation at Mitchell’s, we popped into Lowry’s Bar for a pre-dinner pint. Classic dark wood with memorabilia covering every inch, Lowry’s was a cozy spot for a drink and chat. Later on, dinner at Mitchell’s was the perfect end to the day. I enjoyed a crock of mussels from the local fishery, Killary.
Back at the dome, we settled in to read while enjoying rain pattering on the roof and fire crackling in the fireplace. It was an idyllic way to end the day.
Our return to Dublin was a movement filled day the next day. Our final meal in Clifden was at Steam Cafe at the site of the old railway station. Fresh ingredients and beautiful coffee made for a great farewell from our 48 hours in Clifden.
Returning to the hustle of Galway and later Dublin was bittersweet. While our objective was achieved and we were rested and relaxed, it was abrupt to go back into the crowds of the Notre Dame v. Navy game going on that weekend.
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